Face Time with Cathys Eels

Face Time with Cathy’s Eels

By Don Silcock

Possibly not everybody’s idea of fun, but for me it was a most unusual and entertaining way to spend an afternoon – upfront and personal with a significant number of large and hungry fresh water eels.

“Cathy” is Cathy Hiob, a former Air Nuigini air hostess who has retired back to her village of Laraibina, some 90 km from Kavieng, down the east coast of New Ireland in Papua New Guinea.

22 years of flying with the national airline has provide Cathy with a seemingly endless string of one-liners, which she really seems to relish using with the many visitors who come to see her flock of fresh-water eels.

In fact, you get the distinct feeling that you are part of a very well-rehearsed routine, as you sit chatting with her in the shade of one of the many trees in the village. But, as amusing as the banter is with this feisty lady with the shock of white hair, the one-liners are just the warm-up act for the star attraction.

For in the village stream are some 10-12 large fresh-water eels and Cathy, together with her trusty assistant, has trained them on a diet of Besta tinned mackerel to appear on demand when they hear the feeding pot being rattled.

 

The training has worked extremely well – too well in fact, as I subsequently learned when the last tin of Besta had gone and the eels disappeared as quickly as they had appeared.

Unfortunately this occurred just as I was getting the hang of being surrounded by large slivering eels, each equipped with an impressive set of teeth.

The usual routine is to stand in the stream and let the eels swim around your feet as Cathy’s assistant doles out the Besta, but I really wanted to get a close-up underwater shot of the eels feeding, so total immersion therapy seemed to be the be the way to go.

I carefully positioned myself at the feet of Cathy’s assistant, shivering slightly in the cold fresh water and feeling strangely vulnerable…

The first tin of Besta was opened and the feeding pot suitably rattled and within seconds I was surrounded by what appeared to be a seething mass of eel flesh!

 

 

Clearly caught up in the overall excitement of the moment, Cathy’s assistant opened tin after tin in rapid succession, as the eels gorged on the mackerel. Then, just as I felt I was getting the hang of this veritable feeding frenzy the last tin was gone and the eels disappeared as quickly as they had appeared!

We tried all sorts to bring them back, even offering our lunch of fresh tuna to tempt them to the camera dome, but all to no avail as the Besta appears to be the only thing that will do it for them!

So… on my next trip to New Ireland and thanks to the usual superb support of Dietmar and Angie Amon of Lissenung Island Resort, we embarked from Kavieng with a case and a half of Besta’s very best – enough for at least two eel banquets!

Cathy was at the exuberant best when we arrived and we sat with her under the tree for the obligatory chat and one-liners – no repeats I noticed…

Then after detailed instructions regarding the timing and rate of dispersal of the Besta were carefully explained to Cathy’s assistant, I positioned myself amongst the eager eels and the feeding began.

The phrase “herding cats” came to mind as I tried very hard to get a good image as the eels slithered in and out of the viewfinder and lumps of mackerel were dispersed and consumed at an alarming rate!

All in all, quite an usual and very interesting way to spend the last day of your trip to Kavieng and let that nitrogen return to where it came from.

 

About Don

Don is a Bali based photojournalist and underwater photographer who travels extensively in South-East Asia and China.

You can read more about Papua New Guinea, and many other places, on his website http://www.indopacificimages.com

Seven Lessons Learned As A Female Traveler

Seven Lessons Learned as A Solo Female Traveler

By Leslie Patrick

Images by Steven Moore

I love traveling, and I’m game for an adventure any time. Trouble is, most of my friends and family are holding down full-time jobs, stuck in that dismal two-weeks-of-holiday-per-year rut. So what’s a girl to do when the hankering to hit the road arises, but no one is free to accompany? Travel solo. We’ve all heard the horror stories of female travelers getting into less than pleasant situations, but what we don’t hear are the millions of stories of women traveling in perfect safety every day–not sensational enough for the newspapers of course. All it takes to successfully travel solo is common sense and a spirit of adventure. I’ve done it many times–in North America, South America and Asia–I’ve lived to tell the tale and I’ve learned a few lessons along the way.

1. Trust People

As a woman, when you tell people you’ll be traveling solo, you hear exclamations like, “Is that safe?” and “Be careful!” Rarely is a “Good for you!” or “How exciting!” uttered, even among the most well-meaning of friends. Of course it’s true that a woman alone in the world must be vigilant and aware of her surroundings, but that is the case whether you’re walking down the block in your own city or on a crowded street in Bangkok. Trouble is, that with all the vigilance going on sometimes we forget that most people are not of the out-to-get-you variety, instead they offer a friendly smile, give you directions, take your photo and don’t steal your bag as you leave your seat to use the restroom on an overnight bus. Definitely be aware, but give people a chance, too.

2. Trust Yourself

Yes, trust others, but first trust yourself. Your instincts are there for a reason and if they say something is sketchy, listen. Don’t be afraid to stand up for yourself if you think you’re being cheated or taken advantage of. Many women don’t say anything because they don’t want to offend people–myself included–but I am beginning to learn that when alone on the road, you must put yourself first because no one else will.

3. Be Prepared

As a long time Girl Scout, I learned this motto well, and it’s served me into my adult life as a traveler. When you’re on the road alone, you’re it. There’s no one to bounce ideas off of, no one to help you read that unintelligible map and no one to borrow toothpaste or sunscreen from when you’ve forgotten your own. Though it’s nearly impossible to be prepared for ANY situation (after all, you wouldn’t want to carry the kitchen sink around in your backpack for weeks) it’s smart to try. Make lists of must-have items, always have a contingency plan should a hostel be fully booked or you miss your train, and always carry a snack should you find yourself in the middle of nowhere on a broken down bus for five hours.

4. Get Involved

You consider yourself a brave adventurer; after all you did set out on a solo trip, right? No matter what your personality type, when you’re traveling alone for an extended length of time, there are going to be those moments of loneliness where you’d give anything to be transported home for just one night. Don’t let these moments get you down, they will pass. They may not even weasel their way into your consciousness if you are proactive in the first place, by taking that Spanish class, signing up for excursions or hanging out in the common room of your hostel to meet fellow solo vagabonds.

5. Prepare to Splurge

For most of us, budget travel is our MO. And it’s an amazing feeling to see a chunk of the world on a small wad of cash. But when you are traveling solo, even the best budget intentions can evaporate when it’s midnight, the bunks are booked and all that’s left is a private room, or you miss the airport shuttle and have to splurge on a private taxi to make your flight on time. There’s no one to split the bill for these unforeseen expenses when you’re single, so stash a little extra money to shell out should an unexpected yet unavoidable budget buster arise.

6. Smile

It amazes me when I travel to see so many of my fellow travelers walk around with a miserable grimace on their face. You’re on a trip! Exploring the world! Be happy for crying out loud! Not only does smiling possibly make all those less-than-pleasant ticket vendors, immigration officers, waiters and bus drivers slightly more endeared to you, but it may be just the thing that your fellow traveler needs to make their day a little brighter.

7. Get out of your Comfort Zone

I’ve never ridden a horse before in my life, so on a recent solo trip to Argentina, I surprised myself by signing up to go horseback riding in the Andes. Scared was an understatement as I put my foot in the stirrups of what seemed to me a giant beast. But once I made it to the saddle, and began to amble along the trail, my heart rate receded and I was able to look around and enjoy the splendor of the mountains. By opening up and doing something you wouldn’t normally consider, you’ll have surprising new experiences, meet different kinds of people and have that awesome “I did it” rush.

About Leslie
Leslie Patrick is an international freelance journalist focusing on travel, culture and lifestyle. Her work has appeared in Salon, AFAR, Marie Claire, Travel + Leisure, Islands, United Airlines’ Hemispheres Magazine and Monocle among other publications. Visit her website at lesliepatrick.com, or her travel blog, The Chic Adventurer.

 

2014 Bucket List

By Rowena Mynott

 

I go through this every year. I sit down, I make a list of resolutions but when end of the year rolls around and it’s time to sit down to write the next years list, inevitably I find that I haven’t fulfilled many of the resolutions on the previous list. Although it is an ancient tradition, it seems I am not alone in my failure to adhere to ‘the list’. That’s probably not a bad thing. We punish ourselves enough for putting on weight over christmas, for not being good enough at our jobs, for not having the big house or earning enough money. So how about this. How about we set positive goals for the next year? There are plenty of people online that I come across who are doing just that. Similarly to a resolution list they write a list of things that they want to achieve that year, the difference being that they are bucket list items. Items that the author is excited about achieving be it taking a skydive or tasting 6 different types of chocolate. And if you don’t manage to tick every item off? It really doesn’t matter! So here we go. Here is my list for 2014:

1 – Kayak with orcas

2 – See grizzly bears in the wild

3 – Train through the Rockies

4 – Pay off a strangers lay-away Christmas gift for their children

5 – 52 Project

6 – Cage dive with crocodiles in Darwin

7 – Read the top 10 novels of all time

8 – Write an e-book

9 – Learn to play the guitar

10 – Visit a new country

11 – Take a new class

12 – Exercise regularly

13 – Sail around Haida Gwaii

14 – Visit Jasper NP

15 – Visit Banff

16 – Dive Fiji

17 – Visit Tintagel Castle in Cornwall

18 – Take part in an archaeological dig

19 – Eat baguettes, cheese and drink wine in France

20 – Take a helicopter flight

21 – Visit Halden Forest Park with Ethan

22 – Celebrate the Lyme Regis Fossil Festival

23 – Take a narrow boat trip around the English canals

24 – Explore Lundy Island

25 – See how many whales we can spot in the Bay of Fundy

26 – Taste chocolate in Belgium

27 – See otters in the wild

28 – Tobermory, Isle of Mull

29 – Edinburgh Castle

30 – Ride on a steam train

31 – Shoot a quiver of arrows

32 – Introduce my son to a monkey

33 – Hold a bird of prey

I am super excited about this list and can’t wait to start achieving it and sharing with you.  What is on your list this year? I’d love to hear – perhaps pick up some inspiration.

 

 

 

 

For The Love Of The Ocean

By Auds at Our Journey To The Sea

The thing about loving the ocean is that you constantly feel the need to explore. Whether it is deeper and wider in the areas you already know, or travelling across the world to see what there is on offer. It is a constant need. There might be better surf there, better fish there, or just a whole new experience.

Ryan has travelled far and wide for a wave. Through Africa, Portugal, France, Indonesia, Australia and Samoa only to name a few. Together, we have explored a range of oceans diving, freediving and spearfishing. It is never enough. We always want more.

It’s extremely lucky that the universe brought us together. Just prior to meeting Ryan I was already planning on giving up my day job and finding a crewing job on a yacht, somewhere in the world. Fate brought us together. Our love for the ocean pushed us closer. We soon realised that we were both aching to explore the world by boat.

And so our planning was set forth. Buy a boat in Europe, sail it back to Australia.

At the moment we are still working towards our goal. Given our age, we have to ensure we are still set up for the future before going on this wonderfully exciting adventure.

Imagine the oceans we will see, the fish we will spear and the waves we will surf. It is simply the best goal we could ever have set for ourselves. We are determined to get there, even though it might not occur as soon as we would hope (like now!).

In the meantime, we are still exploring the wonderful oceans as often as we can. Here is a quick look at some of the beautiful experiences we have already had so far:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Top 10 of 2013 – #6 Travel

Top 10 Instagrams of 2013: #6 Travel

By Rowena Mynott

As 2013 starts to wind down its a good time to reflect on the year that has just passed and the year that is to come. I have obviously been in a reflective mood recently as last month I decided to start a monthly ‘Taking Stock‘ routine: pausing life for a few moments to realise what you are happy and thankful for right in that very moment. Right now as I sit here and look through my images from 2013, I embrace the good and the sad, the ups and the downs and the growth that has taken place. This year has focused on family: Visits and holidays with family from overseas early in the year, my grans passing mid year and these days realising my son is no longer a toddler but is growing into the most incredible child I could ask for.

72&Rising is also growing and developing. I left the magazine format behind and embraced the world of blogging. Thank you to all those that embraced that change with me. It was a difficult decision to make as I loved the old product, but for me right now this is where we need to be. Who knows what the future holds but in 2014 you can certainly expect some exciting things happening here as this process of writing, taking pictures and posting on a regular basis becomes more fluid. I’m re-defining 72 and I look forward to hearing from you about what you would like me to focus on a little more.  There will be plenty of the old: travel and photography but also some new … Let me know.

So as a way to reflect on 2013 I decided to give you a little glimpse into my life and share some of our Top 10 family highlights as seen from my Instagram.  If you would like to follow along, I will be posting one each morning for the next 10 days. Today is Travel.

Travel

As I mentioned, I haven’t travelled far and wide this year as it’s been a year for spending time with family. Travel is in my blood and I desperately miss it when I am bound to one place for too long without the ability to explore. Whilst we haven’t been overseas, we have enjoyed a couple of domestic trips. Ethan loves travel almost as much as I do and he too has learnt that it’s not just about the destination. He loves to sit and people (and plane) watch with me at the airports, find joy in living out of a suitcase and meet lots of new people along the way.

Melbourne is a city that we visit every year. It is my favourite city in Australia, full of life with countless restaurants of all nationalities, art, music and sporting events. The highlight of our last trip down had to be the Botanical Gardens. A very beautiful but long walk out from the CBD (I’d recommend catching the tram especially with a 2 year old in tow!). From the moment you walk through the gates you lose yourself in the beauty of the grounds forgetting that just outside the garden gates are the hustle and bustle of city life. The children’s garden is an absolute joy and it’s what inspired me to create our own kids garden at home. Full of trickling streams that beg to be followed through overhanging trees, giant animals covered in bright mosaics, cubbies, pint sized bridges, mazes and ponds where you can feed the ducks.

Philip Island was another treasure. I had travelled here on a day trip many years ago and so it was exciting to be spending a week exploring here. We took Ethan to watch the penguin parade, a nightly event where thousands of little penguins return to their burrows having spent the day out at sea feeding. They linger out to sea just past the breakers whilst they check out the crowd before making a swim for the beach. They run up the beaches chattering and squawking to each other and their chicks in the burrows. There is a lot to cover on Philip Island and we barely scratched the surface. Aside from the penguins, we went to the motor races, explored the headland and of course couldn’t go home without visiting the islands chocolate factory.

The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.

– St. Augustine

With plane in one hand and hand luggage in the other, Mr 3 heads to the airport

Up, up, up and away

Two generations ponder life on Port Philip Island

It would have been rude to go past the chocolate factory on Port Philip Island without paying a visit.

Watching hot air balloons as the sun rises over the city of Melbourne

Finding what lurks amongst the trees at Melbourne Zoo

Collecting extra luggage

The plane always comes to the airport with us

Exploring botanical gardens in the city with grandma

Wrapped up warm against the chilly weather in Melbourne

Loving riding the tram

Where did you travel to this year? Did you travel overseas or prefer to stick to your homeland?

Weekly Photo Challenge: Light

By Rowena Mynott

Photography is always something that I have been passionate about. I was seven when my Great Auntie first introduced me to it using a Box Brownie camera (which I still have). Since then I have amassed quite a collection of both cameras and images, but I have never dedicated as much time to it as I would like. When I came across the weekly photo challenges I decided to sign up and give it a go. I have tried daily photo challenges in the past – they started out great for a while but life got in the way as it inevitably does. I’m hoping a weekly challenge might be more achievable … lets see shall we?

The Challenge

Each week we are given a different theme and need to post an image that fits that theme. This week the image needs to be ‘Light’:

Take a look around you. Choose one of the light sources you see, and make it the focus of your challenge entry. It can be a dramatic chandelier or a pair of dying candles; the moon, a row of glaring lightbulbs in the parking lot, or a gaudy lava lamp stored in your attic: anything goes. The light doesn’t even have to be switched on: some lamps are just as fascinating for their shape as for the photons they emit.

Light

I have had to dig through the archives for this one as time isn’t my friend this week. It was taken in the good old days of film so may be a little grainy as it’s a scan of the original image. In 2000 I travelled from England to Morocco with about 20 other people on a bus held together by sticky tape, string and a few prayers! I lost count of the times we broke down. It was an incredible trip, we drove through France, Spain and Portugal before finally arriving in Morocco. The guy who brought us all together had travelled throughout Africa extensively and could speak arabic which came in particularly handy. Chefchaouen was our first stop, beautiful blue and white streets, hammams and kazbahs. We climbed Mt Toubkal, rode through the high Atlas sitting on the roof of our bus, snake charmed in Marrakech, galloped horses down the beach in Essaouira and found fossils in Erfoud. There is a future post scheduled on this trip if you would like to hear more.

These lights are one of the classic symbols of Morocco. They evoke romantic images of white flowing clothing billowing around tanned bodies that alight upon richly embroidered floor cushions. Sumptuous food served on silver platters whilst moroccan music plays in the background … or is that just me and my long term love of Indiana Jones?

 

Stunning light in a kasbah, Morocco

Planning a Round the World Trip with a Child

By Rowena Mynott

 

As you may have noticed, 2014 is the year that I embark on a four month long round the world adventure with my three year old son.  My life pre-child was very nomadic and despite having taken a shorter round the world trip with Mr 3 when he was just three months old, I was starting to miss the joys of travel:  The freedom that it provides, the scenery, the cultures, the sights and the experiences that cannot be recreated in a 9-5 routine at home. In short I was starting to feel stagnant.

When it came time to plan our family trip to visit parents and extended family and friends in England and Canada we were given a reality check when we remembered that my husband now has a ‘proper grown up’, 9-5, monday to friday, two weeks holiday a year job. Up until last year he had been working casually as a chef whilst applying for his dream career. The casual chef thing wasn’t a big hit for either of us – it’s not a job suited to having a family as it involves long hours, working nights and a stressful environment. It did however afford Seb the freedom to take as much time off as he wanted. Now we realised that he was limited to two weeks and that’s not much time to pack in a round the world trip, especially with a three year old along for the ride.

But then in an excited moment of clarity, I realised that although Seb was locked in to a rigid schedule, Mr 3 and I didn’t have to be! I decided to extend the two weeks … to four months! So now what?

The Journey and the Destinations

Well, as it’s just me and my little sidekick on this adventure, and given that he has just turned three, I decided to keep this trip simple. There will be more extended trips in his future to exotic far flung places, but for mama’s sanity, dada’s finances and a three year olds coping ability I decided that we would replicate the trip that we did when Mr 3 was three months old. That was the initial purpose of this journey after all – to see family. Once the time frame had been established, the planning began in earnest. We had to go to England and Canada and hoped to visit either Hawaii, Fiji or Japan on the way back. Unfortunately once we started looking into ticket prices it was going to add a substantial amount to the final cost that couldn’t be justified given the short stay there.

So, the route was decided. Mr 3 and I will fly from Australia to England for 3 months (where we will explore Europe) and then onto Canada for one month (travelling from west to east coast by train) meeting Seb for two weeks of those before heading home.

The hardest thing about planning something like this with a little one at home is finding the time … and the ability to concentrate. I spend around 21 hours a day with my child and the other hours are either work or chore time! It’s hard squeezing it all in! I searched around several different places to find the best deals and finally found a travel agent who has the patience of a God. Whilst booking the flights I spoke to her at least once a day and although there is nothing unusual about that when you are single, adding a 3 year old into the mix ends up in all sorts of chaos. We are just entering the phase of ‘Oh, you are on the phone? But I need your attention … NOW!’. I have had whispered conversations, snuck off to a different room in the house to remain undetected by Mr 3 and hidden behind kitchen benches to dial phone numbers. All strategies that worked at times, but the attention radar of Mr 3 soon picked up on it and there were many conversations where the toddlers screaming for attention obliterated anything that could be heard from the other end, resulting in quickly ended phone conversations, a happy child that immediately went back to playing alone and an exasperated momma!

But we managed it. The best deals on tickets were found and all being well, will be paid off tomorrow! Now it is real and the excitement is mounting. Is it wrong that I am starting to create a little pile of items to take with us already?!

What to Do, What to Do?

Guide books may not be the best way of finding out about those out of the way gems but they are a great place to start your research

Now we get to the nitty gritty, the planning of the finer details. Many years ago when travelling was a little different to today (carrying a 25 kilogram backpack 20 kilometres to the hostel from the bus stop because there are no hostel buses to collect you, after visiting an incredible location having other people you meet say “Where? I’ve never heard of that!” and coming home exhausted, battered and bruised because your travels have been adventurous and not once involved sunbathing on a beach) travel books were invaluable resources. The internet was nothing like it is today and so books, chatting to other travellers and of course blind exploration were the only way of discovering new places, those little hidden gems that are today on peoples bucket lists and shared so easily.

When I first started planning this trip, I went to the local library and picked up a stack of Lonely Planet guidebooks. They are a great place to start to get an understanding of what is in each region you are heading to.

You can follow the route that Mr 3 and I will be taking here. It will change over the next few months as I define our plans and I would love to hear from you if you have any suggestions or ideas, after all, the best local knowledge comes from those that live there.

Here is my bucket list for this trip so far:

• Kayaking with orcas in BC
• Watching grizzly bears feeding on salmon in BC
• Visiting Vancouver Island
• Banff National Park
• Jasper National Park
• Catching the train across country Canada
• Seeing old Quebec
• Fossil hunting along the Jurassic Coast in the UK
• Walking some of the South West coastal path in the UK
• Seeing the Eden Project in Cornwall
• Tripping across to France for some of that amazing cheese, baguettes and wine (Perhaps for Bastille Day)
• Visiting Scotland – With over 26 years spent in England it’s a place I never managed to visit
• Windmills in Holland
• Popping into a few other European countries I am yet to visit properly (Belgium, Luxemburg)
• Tempted by Denmark …

 

Planning Travel with a Child

Plane in hand and with his own luggage Mr 2 was ready to catch his plane!

 

Of course planning a round the world trip with a sidekick in tow is different to if you were to go alone … but not as different as you might think. As long as you keep in mind a few simple planning rules to help you out, you should find it fairly straightforward:

1. Choosing Countries: If your child is younger you may want to avoid travelling to any country where disease may be a risk. Having said that, many many people travel to India, the African continent and South America with their kids and are fine. For me, Mr 3 is still a little too young to take to these countries but I will most certainly be venturing there in the not too distant future with him.
2. Deciding how to travel: How are you going to travel? Flights are obviously an easy and fun way for kids, although long haul flights may be a bit tedious for them. Cars allow you to stop frequently to stretch over active legs. Boats are great although are subject to any bad weather. There are camels, bikes and horses to consider. Don’t limit your mind just because you have a child in tow. There are plenty of families out there travelling by all sorts of ways and means.
3. Choosing flights: You will know your child best and the best time of the day/night to travel. Mr 3 is a terrible sleeper and very very energetic during the day but the good thing is that when we travel he will sometimes crash out with the excitement of it all. I sleep pretty well on planes so our flights have been booked for night. We shall see if this helps us keep a routine whilst we are away. Fingers crossed.
4. Flexibility: With dates for flights and what you want to see. The more laid back you are the more you will enjoy it rather than getting stressed about flights not available on certain dates or not managing to go for a coffee in a certain cafe.
5. Get the kids involved in the planning. Mr 3 has taken great joy in looking through all the books with me and declaring what we will be going to visit. Admittedly it’s been pretty much every image that he came across but over the next few months I’m sure we can whittle it down!
6. Deciding what to do: Remember to plan for your child. Don’t make it all about what you want to do. Happy child = Happy parent. Fit in some fun trips to parks, museums or outdoor activities along with your bucket list and you will both have a fantastic and memorable journey. Be sure not to overfill your days though. Pace yourself and don’t be too disappointed if you don’t manage to tick off everything on your list. I will go away with a huge ‘To Do’ list (it’s just in my nature!) but I know we probably won’t achieve all of the things on it. I’m ok with that.
7. Be prepared: Further down the track I will look into times of trains and backups if we miss trains, accommodation and backup accommodation in case it’s full. I am a little OCD about planning and preparation but it pays off in the long run. If something goes wrong when you are a single traveller it’s an annoyance, if it goes wrong with a child in tow the situation can go to meltdown mode for the both of you very quickly!

 

So to make your life a little easier keep these three little things in mind:

1. Set reasonable expectations
2. Take it slow and steady
3. Get the kids involved
4. Be prepared

 

Kids are an absolute joy, they are totally adaptable to travel and are able to teach even the most hardened travellers a thing or two. Watch how travel with your child changes your perspectives as you learn to slow down and take the time to appreciate your new surroundings, interact with those around you and soak in new experiences.

 

 

 

 Do you have any advice on where we should go? Have you attempted a round the world trip with a child? Do you have any advice? I would love to hear from you in the comments below.

 

A Nomadic Lifestyle: When will you grow up and settle down?

When Will You Grow Up and Settle Down?

By Steven Moore

 

It’s taken almost two decades for some of my nearest and dearest to fully comprehend the lifestyle I have chosen. For so many years, I’d hear things like, “It’s just not realistic”, or “How can you afford to live like that? Aren’t you getting a little old for all this gallivanting?” My favourite: “When are you going grow up and settle down?” Perhaps now, nineteen years after my first backpacking adventure to Indonesia and Australia, I think they get it.

So what is the crazy lifestyle I lead that has caused so many concerns for my loved ones? Quite simply, it’s a life that involves me doing exactly what I want, when I want, for how long I want, and most importantly, where I want!

For almost twenty years I’ve spent my life travelling the world, living and working on four different continents and spending time in almost 50 countries. Of course, the two decades haven’t been spent totally on the road. There have been many years…too many…where I had to temporarily curb my wanderlust and return to my native England. I have worked regular jobs, but usually only to boost the travel funds for pending trips. I even spent a four year stretch at University, but that was a calculated sacrifice, enabling the last few years of fun and adventure in Korea.

Let me address some of the comments about my ‘lifestyle’ I’ve heard so frequently.

1.     It’s just not realistic.

Well, why ever not? I’ve managed to maintain a gloriously nomadic lifestyle. As a younger man, I worked hard, saved up, travelled, and supplemented it all by doing sporadic paid work on the road. When the money ran out…6 months, a year…I went home and started again. This worked for a long time, but I eventually got tired of the have-to-go-home part. Thus, I completed a Bachelor’s Degree in a few things that ended in ‘ology, and teaching ESL in Korea became an amazing and realistic option to continue the so-called unrealistic lifestyle.

 2.     How can you afford to live like that?

Live like what? I like the same things as everyone else, but it definitely helps that I’m not a materialistic person. Belongings are for other people. I’ve never bought a new TV, and the few cars I’ve owned were cheaper than a train from London to Edinburgh. They didn’t last long, and they didn’t need to. I’ve never begged, and I never go hungry, and it’s just a case of knowing what’s important. Possessions I count as important are my passport and my backpack. My one luxury item? Kindle, absolutely!

3. Aren’t you getting a little old for all this gallivanting?

Excuse me? Certainly not! I assume what they mean is that they just thought it would be out of my system by now, being almost 40, and that I should consider getting a real job. Well, I’ve taught English for 3 of the last 5 years in South Korea, and now I’m a novelist on the verge of moving to Paris. Okay, aspiring novelist, but we have to follow our dreams, right? Age should be no determiner of whether or not we travel. If it’s fun and inspiring, any age is the perfect age.

4. And finally, the classic. When are you going to grow up and settle down?

Grow up? Settle down? What does that even mean? I guess traditionally that means finding the right guy or girl, getting married with a house and mortgage, couple of kids, car in the drive way etc, and a few dusty photo albums that come out occasionally to relive old memories. Let me just assure you now that creating new memories is much more fun than reliving old ones, though of course that’s fun too.

Well, I am settled. What I mean is, I have an amazing long term girlfriend, Leslie, who shares my dreams and ethics, we each know what we want from our futures, and we both know what we don’t want…sedate, sedentary, stagnant, stale, and suffocating lives spent doing something we don’t want to do in somewhere that we don’t want to do it. So we don’t!

Right now, Darwin is home, but over the next 12 months we’ll be spending time in Indonesia, France, England, the USA and Central America, while I continue with my novel and Leslie pursues her freelance journalism career. Settled? Yes, completely, thanks for asking.

 

So what does it take to live a nomadic lifestyle? Everybody has different needs and desires in terms of what they want from their lives. But the more you need, the more difficult it is to be nomadic. I say it just takes an open mind. A sense of adventure is a prerequisite. A thick skin is crucial for all the times when things don’t go to plan. Believe me, this can be often. Patience is vital, and appreciation and awareness of yourself and others is paramount.

Hemingway once said; “It’s great to have an end to journey toward; but it’s the journey that matters, in the end.” I agree wholeheartedly, and so most of all, what you need is a reason to do it. My reason? Travel defines me, makes me tick. To see the world is to learn not only about it, but about yourself and your place in it. And once you know yourself, you can be settled anywhere.

Steven Moore is the epitome of a 21st century nomad. He has traveled on five continents, and lived and worked on four. Steven writes a travel blog about his international adventures, and he is currently penning his first novel.

Check out his blog at www.twentyfirstcenturynomad.com and Facebook: @21enturyNomad

Wildlife of the South Orkney Islands

 

By Rowena Mynott

Originally named the Powell’s Group after the two sealers who discovered them in 1821. The South Orkney Islands were given their present name a couple of years later in 1823 as their latitude is roughly the same as their namesake – the Orkney Islands, in Scotland.

Becoming the world’s first ‘high seas’ marine protected area in May 2010, the South Orkneys cover 94,000 square kilometres of chilly Southern Ocean. This protection prevents fishing and waste disposal in the area as well as providing increased opportunities and improved coordination for scientific research activities. Scientists have recently discovered that these barren looking islands may in fact have more biodiversity than the Galapagos Islands.

The southerly location means that about 90% of the islands are glaciated. Fauna inhabiting these environments is similar to those found in the Arctic such as marine mammals and oceanic birds.

The Southern Orkneys mark the southern limit of The WeddellScotia Confluence – an area where the outflowing Weddell Sea waters converge with the eastward flowing waters of the Scotia Sea. This area is a key habitat for the heavily harvested and heavily relied upon food source – Antarctic krill.

Antarctic Krill – Euphausia superba

These little creatures are so small that an area of just one cubic metre can contain up to 30,000 individuals. Although small, Antarctic krill are actually the largest of the species at around six centimetres long, making them quite visible to the naked eye. As crustaceans, their shells are often transparent allowing an insight into their last meal: microscopic plants known as phytoplankton.

Krill are, in terms of biomass, the most abundant species in the world. They are near the bottom of the food chain and are responsible for feeding the majority of life in the ocean, either directly or as food for larger predators.

As a keystone species their decline in the ocean environment would have dramatic knock-on effects. Unfortunately, over the years, scientists have been witnessing such a decline. It is believed that over the past 35 years krill numbers have decreased by 80%.

The calcareous tests of krill are susceptible to ocean acidification and although little is known at the moment about how this affects krill, other species with a calcareous exoskeleton are severely compromised. Scientists have recently identified devastating effects of increased ocean acidity on . Up to 54% of the larvae did not survive with increased acid levels. This is particularly worrying for Antarctic krill as ocean acidification is notably worse in the polar regions.

Krill are targeted catch by fisheries for use in animal food and fish bait products. The Antarctic krill fishery nets around 100,000 tonnes of krill per year with the main consumers being Asia and Scandinavia.

Weddell Seal – Leptonychotes weddellii

From one of the smallest creatures in the ocean to a much larger one, the Weddell seal grows to 3.5 metres and 600 kilograms feeding mainly on krill, fish and squid. They are well known for their incredible diving abilities, diving to 750 metres to forage for food in and around icebergs. A high level of myoglobin in their muscles allows these seals to stay submerged for up to eighty minutes at a time. Living in Antarctica in winter is difficult and despite such a great ability to hold its breath, the seals are well aware that they need to return to the surface to breathe. Being trapped under the ice is a real issue, so by using their long canines to rasp away at the icebergs, the seals create new breathe-holes.

With healthy population numbers – around 800,000 individuals – these animals are heavily researched. Although these seals have been on the decline recently, population numbers are considered stable. Their main predators are larger marine mammals such as the orca.

Weddell seals will give birth to one pup at a time, however they have a unique ability called delayed implantation. A seal can be carrying a fertilised egg that goes into a suspended state for up to 90 days before implanting. If the mother’s body is in a poor state or she is under severe stress the blastocyst will be reabsorbed into her body. If she is fit and well she will become pregnant. Pups are fully self sufficient by around six weeks of age.

Grey-headed Albatross – Thalassarche chrysostoma

Species of the albatross family are the largest of all sea birds. A two-metre wingspan enables them to glide for long distances without expending much energy, something that is vital to an individual’s survival as they are largely pelagic birds, choosing to forage in open ocean and only coming ashore to breed.

They are legendary birds particularly to sailors, notably from the poem Rime of the Ancient Mariner written by the English poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge in 1797 that describes the experiences of a sailor who has returned from a long voyage. As the sailor’s ship is pushed off course towards Antarctica by bad weather, an albatross appears and leads the ship to safety. Much to the despair of the crew, the mariner shoots the bird leading to an ongoing saga of curses. The crew forces the mariner to wear the albatross around his neck (which is where the modern saying originates from) and upon the death of his crew he is forced to wander the Earth, telling his story and teaching a lesson as penance for shooting the albatross.

Unfortunately, these days, the albatross is not regarded in such high esteem. Rapidly declining numbers have put this bird on the IUCN list as Vulnerable. Longline fisheries have a significant impact on these birds as they become snared upon the hooks and are dragged under the water. The slow reproduction rate of the albatross only serves to worsen the problem. It is believed there are around 250,000 individual grey-headed albatross currently but that the population has decreased by up to 49% over the last 90 years.

Leopard Seal – Hydrurga leptonyx

Named for its spotted coat and its ferocity, the leopard seal is the second largest seal in the Antarctic and the largest of the phocid (or ‘true’) seals – meaning they have no external ear flaps.

Living for around 25 years, these seals have few predators. , Humans were once the largest predator, however these days orcas are the main predator. Whilst there are not many reports of incidents with humans, these days it is advisable to give the leopard seal the respect that it deserves, particularly as it is the only seal to hunt on warm-blooded prey such as other seals.

Living a solitary life on the pack ice, leopard seals are also quite the nomads of the seal kingdom. Whereas most Antarctic seals do not leave the confines of the cooler waters around Antarctica, the leopard seal has been seen as far north as Tasmania and even in the warm waters of Heron Island in Australia.

Females are larger than the males and weigh up to 500 kilograms. After digging a hole in the ice for the pup to rest, they will give birth to a single offspring upwards of about 30 kilograms before returning to the ocean to forage.

Diving El Hierro

Diving El Hierro – The smallest of the Canary Islands

By Claudia Weber-Gebert

 

Sleepy El Hierro encourages relaxation

The clock ticks differently – no hassle, no stress – travellers seeking mass tourism, are out of place here. Relax and rest you can let your mind wander.

 

The Island

The smallest of the seven Canary Islands in the Atlantic Ocean lies to the west. The end of the “old world” with the monument of the zero meridian is found in the vicinity of the “Faro de Orchilla”. Before America was discovered the general thoughts in Europe were that this was the westernmost point of the “disk”.

The island is of volcanic origin, which is felt both above and below water everywhere. Black lava fields with vegetation, the crater with fertile plantations, a rugged coastline with bizarre rock formations. With elevations from 0 to more than 1500 meters above sea level, the small island has a variety of diverse climates and vegetation which offers plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, mountain biking and of course water sports.

You can reach El Hierro from the bigger Canary Islands like Tenerife or Gran Canaria by ferry or twin engine aircraft. The journey is the destination.

 

Faro de Orchilla Monument

 

Diving

Many of Spain’s most popular dive sites are located in the south of the island, next to La Restinga. Although the town is very small it has nine dive centres which will also help you to organize accommodation and transfers.

Zodiacs leave the harbour for the numerous dive sites three or four times each day. You can find a dive site for everyone – from sophisticated drift dives to the “leisurely walk” underwater; deep or shallow, steep wall or sand surface depending on your taste. However, it is located in the Atlantic, which means the dive sites are not necessarily suitable for diving beginners. You should at least once have been immersed in the sea and gathered some experience there.
Depending on the diving base, the tours are groups of 6 to 14 people. The equipment will be transported by car or trailer to the harbour where they are loaded onto the boat.

Dive equipment is transported to the harbour via car

 

We have chosen the individual variation and dive with “Fan Diving”, Jutta and Günter Baumgartel, a small dive center, where the diving groups are limited to a maximum of 6-8 people. Individuality is really very important here, it is taken care of you and they are able to read almost every wish from our eyes. In short: Jutta and Günter are always available with advice and assistance, both above and underwater! Defective equipment is repaired if possible and everything is straightforward – just as you would wish for in a relaxing holiday.

 

Dive boats are comfortable

On the boat trip along the coast to the dive sites, the history of the island is clearly present: steep walls, the various layers of lava, ash, sand, and the remnants of pyroclastic explosions are visible. You can also make out the hard magma channels that penetrate these layers vertically upwards.

Wind and currents govern the choice of dive sites for the day. We were lucky that the wind came from W – NW, so the spots in the eastern region of La Restinga could be approached with places that are accessible in some cases only 4-5 times in a year. Again, we felt in good hands with Günter Baumgartel, he knows every spot and accompanied us on every dive showing the most beautiful places.  He knew the hiding spots of animals and documented the highlights of each dive for a final photo show in the dive base. These photos are later a beautiful reminder of a successful diving holiday.

Baja Ribera rises from the ocean like a needle

 

Diving El Banyon

” El Bayon “, an extinct volcano, is one of the best dive spots on the island – some say the most beautiful area in Spain. The rock falls steeply down to a depth of 100m. The various layers forming terraces where plenty of marine life can be seen. Usually there is a light to heavy current which can make it a tricky dive site. In addition to this awesome place my personal favorite was ” Baja Ribera “, a magma rock with a 15m diameter rising like a needle from a depth of 35m from the sandy soil up to 10m below the water surface. While the rest of the volcanic cone has been eroded, the hard magma core still exists. Barracuda and jackfish are always found here and a “pet” grouper can be met nearly every time. At this place you can sometimes even see manta rays, which circle around the rock from the bottom to the top.

Rugged landscape provides some spectacular underwater scenery

Even the dive site “Emmental” makes its name with many arches, bridges, canyons and breakthroughs. There are several places with wonderful underwater landscapes that make every diver’s heart beat faster.

Beautiful arches and canyons of Emmental

Everyone who carries with him special diving equipment should be prepared for any necessary repairs. Standard O-rings are available in all dive bases, but everything different from the norm can not easily be purchased in the shop around the corner. So please bring special parts from home.

With water temperatures of 18°C to 24°C, good visibility, some 40m or even more, diving is possible all around the year.

There is an interesting article in the german magazine “Unterwasser” issue 4/2013 by Günter Baumgartel about the “3 seasons”.
http://www.el-hierro-tauchen.de/Blog/Eintrage/2013/3/26_Unterwasser_Ausgabe_April_2013.html

Underwater World

Since no industrial fishery is allowed and the authorities support sustainable fisheries, fish populations are still healthy. By using traditional methods overfishing doesn’t seem to be having an impact. The Peto fishermen fish using a long pipe harpoon and take only a single fish at a time from a small boat. Parrotfish are caught with a special hook by the fishermen while snorkelling, taking only what is sufficient for their own needs. Harpooning is even banned in some sites.

Peto fisherman using a long pipe harpoon

 

Fishing is regulated giving the impression of a conservation area

You almost feel like you are in a conservation area. Unlike in the Mediterranean, there are still large schools of fish to find: shoals of sardines, mackerel, jackfish, peto, tuna or barracuda .Groupers grow to an impressive size, they approach and are not shy at all and even allow divers to get close.

A friendly grouper poses for a shot …

… and then comes closer to check it out

With luck, you can also get manta rays or see whale sharks, turtles and other large fish. Dolphins can also be heard underwater and seen on the surface – but the shy marine mammals do not come near divers. The overgrown caves and crevices provide shelter for eels, crabs and other small animals. You should always carry a lamp to illuminate the holes to see animals that may be hiding- there’s a lot to explore . On large sandy areas sand eels are seen. The sand also offers good opportunities for rays, flatfish and a lot of octopus.

A spectacular eye catcher is the famous black corals on steep drop-offs rocks. Unfortunately, these corals were the “loser” of the volcanic eruption in 2011 – covered in mud they regionally had only low survival chances. Here, just a slow regeneration is taking place. However, the dead branches of the black corals turn into a starting point for other species: partially yellow anemones colonize these branches.

Underwater Photography

An El Dorado for wide-angle underwater photographers – the rugged landscapes offer numerous and varied options: Steep walls with black coral, dark sand surfaces with sand eels, caves, canyons and breakthroughs with wonderful perspectives and bizarre rock formations, various vegetation, shy marine life and large schools of fish.

Plentiful fish life

 

Schools of fish

For the macro-photographer it is not so plentiful, but you can find beautiful small critters: Snails, shrimp, blennies and anemones always offer nice images.

Beautiful Anemones

It is advantageous if you have a local guide with you, someone who knows the hiding places of the animals and the most beautiful caves and rock formations. In this respect, our choice of the dive base “Fan Diving” was exactly the right thing. As an avid underwater photographer Günter Baumgartel led us to the most beautiful places. He is always ready with help and advice, even if things are not working or there are questions about the photo technology.

Every year in autumn in La Restinga an importatnt photo event takes place: the international photo competition “Open Fotosub” in which well-known photographers compete – no wonder with those stunning underwater scenes.

Octopus putting on a show

 

Country and its people

You should definitely take at least 1-2 days and explore the island on your own. This is very easy with a rental car.
Worth seeing are the “Sabina Herreña”, some more than 2000 years old conifers, which are considered as landmarks of the island.
Other points of interest are the Faro de Orchilla, the lighthouse with the monument of former zero meridian, the laurel forests in the fog and cloud region, the cliffs in the north or the plantations of the “El Golfo”.

The Herreños are friendly and helpful, as we experienced during the breakdown of our rental car. Immediately several local motorists stopped and offered the “tourists” help – a kindness we miss elsewhere.
In the town of La Restinga you will experience village life – young and old come together in the evening on the harbour promenade. There the gossip of the day is exchanged until the late evening hours. An idyllic village with a harmonious character.

 

The flora on El Hierro is as beautiful as its fauna

 

The volcanic eruption in 2011

Laval remnants are slowly colonised with vegetation

In October 2011, about 1.8 km off La Restinga, a volcano erupted under water and life in the fishing village turned completely upside down. The town had to be evacuated because of the risk of life-threatening fumes.
There was a fish-die-off due to ascending gasses and a layer of mud covered the ocean floor later on. An unexpected situation for the fishermen and diving centers.
Since the beginning of March 2012 all dive sites have been cleared, there is no more danger and there are no restrictions.
Günter Baumgartel documented the disaster with photos before the disaster and 1 year later showing how quickly nature regenerates itself and that which presents as destructive to us can sometimes be an advantage for nature. The nutrient-rich mud has created a good base for flora and fauna under water – hardly anything is visible of the disaster today.

 

Corals and marine flora hide what was once devastated by a volcanic eruption